Adventure to the Savannah
Let me set the scene; I’m the volunteer
intern for the MAP Asia office. I was sent to the remote Island of Koh Phra
Thong (pronounced Goh Pra Tong – this isn’t exact but Thai to English doesn’t
translate very well) or “Golden Buddha Island” in the Andaman Sea off the west
coast of Thailand. I wasn’t banished or sent away because Jim and Ning were
needing a break (at least I don’t think I was…); I was asked if I wanted to
help out Barry – an associate of MAP’s – with some Sea Grass monitoring around
the island. Being the dutiful intern I am, off I went for a week.
intern for the MAP Asia office. I was sent to the remote Island of Koh Phra
Thong (pronounced Goh Pra Tong – this isn’t exact but Thai to English doesn’t
translate very well) or “Golden Buddha Island” in the Andaman Sea off the west
coast of Thailand. I wasn’t banished or sent away because Jim and Ning were
needing a break (at least I don’t think I was…); I was asked if I wanted to
help out Barry – an associate of MAP’s – with some Sea Grass monitoring around
the island. Being the dutiful intern I am, off I went for a week.
The monitoring didn’t go too well on my
part; I managed to cut my toe open on an oyster shell on the very first day,
leaving me land-bound to do some “administrative” tasks instead. However, I did
have the opportunity to join an educational day out to the Savannah of the
island for the local children.
part; I managed to cut my toe open on an oyster shell on the very first day,
leaving me land-bound to do some “administrative” tasks instead. However, I did
have the opportunity to join an educational day out to the Savannah of the
island for the local children.
The day started off well; the sun was
shining and when I arrived there was anticipation in the air. The kids had been
gathering excitedly outside the house of Pi Noon (a local islander and our main
guide for the day) for at least an hour before we were due to set off in the
tractors or “duk-duks” as they’re locally referred to, due to the sound of their
engines. The children had a mixture of Moken (sea gypsy), Thai and Chinese
heritage which encompasses all the cultures found on the island. They ranged
from the age of four where the idea of going on the tractor out of the village
into the relative wilderness is rather overwhelming, to teenagers attempting a
nonchalant attitude that was easily seen through to find genuine enthusiasm for
the activities to come.
shining and when I arrived there was anticipation in the air. The kids had been
gathering excitedly outside the house of Pi Noon (a local islander and our main
guide for the day) for at least an hour before we were due to set off in the
tractors or “duk-duks” as they’re locally referred to, due to the sound of their
engines. The children had a mixture of Moken (sea gypsy), Thai and Chinese
heritage which encompasses all the cultures found on the island. They ranged
from the age of four where the idea of going on the tractor out of the village
into the relative wilderness is rather overwhelming, to teenagers attempting a
nonchalant attitude that was easily seen through to find genuine enthusiasm for
the activities to come.
I was one of seven “Farang” (foreigner)
joining the children and adults. We made our introductions and started the
inevitable conversation amongst travellers to find out who we were, where we
were all from etc etc. Myself and Katie were interns for MAP and Andaman
Discoveries respectively and Kuntum is a friend from Indonesia who is doing
research about coastal communities. There were also three Americans with us and
Barry (who has been on the island for enough years that he’s considered more of
a local than a foreigner now).
joining the children and adults. We made our introductions and started the
inevitable conversation amongst travellers to find out who we were, where we
were all from etc etc. Myself and Katie were interns for MAP and Andaman
Discoveries respectively and Kuntum is a friend from Indonesia who is doing
research about coastal communities. There were also three Americans with us and
Barry (who has been on the island for enough years that he’s considered more of
a local than a foreigner now).
 |
| Pi Noon driving one of the “Duk duks” to the Savannah |
Mid-way through our chat (and without any obvious
signal that I could discern) the children all piled onto the trailers attached
to the tractors, giving us our queue to follow suit. Homemade ice-slushies and
snacks from the local store at the ready for the journey ahead, the engines were
started and black smoke was soon choking out into the faces of anyone
unfortunate enough to find themselves nearest the exhaust. I don’t think I
would be exaggerating if I suggested that those tractors were quite a few years
older than me.
Within about 5 minutes of leaving it
started chucking it down. It was the
kind of rain that soaks through your clothes in a minute leaving you feeling
ridiculous as you try your best to sport the “drowned rat” look. I was
definitely unprepared for the onslaught and had to quickly shuffle my
belongings into other people’s dry bags (I had mistakenly used a handbag which
was no match for the pelting down pour). The children loved it.
started chucking it down. It was the
kind of rain that soaks through your clothes in a minute leaving you feeling
ridiculous as you try your best to sport the “drowned rat” look. I was
definitely unprepared for the onslaught and had to quickly shuffle my
belongings into other people’s dry bags (I had mistakenly used a handbag which
was no match for the pelting down pour). The children loved it.
We took cover at bar Sammao and had an early lunch as the rain
didn’t look like it was going anywhere any time soon. Fried rice with egg (and
chicken for the non-veggies) served in banana leaves was handed round and we
found space where we could to sit and tuck in. Our conversations were
punctuated with deafening thunder overhead and each boom was accompanied by a
squeal of both delight and terror from the children.
didn’t look like it was going anywhere any time soon. Fried rice with egg (and
chicken for the non-veggies) served in banana leaves was handed round and we
found space where we could to sit and tuck in. Our conversations were
punctuated with deafening thunder overhead and each boom was accompanied by a
squeal of both delight and terror from the children.
Eventually though, the rain started to
ease, so we went back out into the drizzle (somewhat cold and reluctant I’ll
admit) to continue our way. Soon we had to leave the concrete path and venture
into 4×4 territory with vehicles that were definitely not 4×4. The wheels got
stuck multiple times in the soft sand which meant that us bigger folk had to
jump off and lend a hand. The little ones helped by screaming their
encouragement from the trailers we were pushing.
ease, so we went back out into the drizzle (somewhat cold and reluctant I’ll
admit) to continue our way. Soon we had to leave the concrete path and venture
into 4×4 territory with vehicles that were definitely not 4×4. The wheels got
stuck multiple times in the soft sand which meant that us bigger folk had to
jump off and lend a hand. The little ones helped by screaming their
encouragement from the trailers we were pushing.
A Melaleuca tree |
The drivers clearly knew where they were going but
to me it seemed there were multiple paths into this wilderness and I soon lost
my sense of direction. We came to a stop in front of an area that didn’t seem
especially significant or different from the terrain of the last 5 minutes, but
as the children sat down on the ground the weather was kind enough to have
stopped raining and even offered some sunshine.
 |
| Drischidia major |
Pi Noon and other adults explained some of
the more unique aspects about the wildlife of the Savannah. He talked about the
orchids that grew on the Melaleuca or “Paper Bark” trees, the Sambar deer that
are on the island and the mushrooms that locals come to collect after the
rains. One girl piped up that she’d
lived on the island for 17 years and hadn’t seen a Sambar deer once; she
jokingly asked if they were actually real.
the more unique aspects about the wildlife of the Savannah. He talked about the
orchids that grew on the Melaleuca or “Paper Bark” trees, the Sambar deer that
are on the island and the mushrooms that locals come to collect after the
rains. One girl piped up that she’d
lived on the island for 17 years and hadn’t seen a Sambar deer once; she
jokingly asked if they were actually real.
Pi Noon also spoke of the importance of
this unique habitat for them as local people because of the resources they use
from it. He emphasised the importance of nature to them and how it must be
looked after and sustainably used so it may be there for generations to come.
this unique habitat for them as local people because of the resources they use
from it. He emphasised the importance of nature to them and how it must be
looked after and sustainably used so it may be there for generations to come.
After the chat and discussion the children went
scrambling about exploring the area. We Farang got to quiz the adults about
some of the plants. We were shown Drischidia
major which has hollow leaves that hold ants nests, some of the orchids and
were told that the thatch roofing and walls of the houses in the villages is
usually made from the treated bark of the Melaleuca trees.
A couple of group photos to mark the
activities were taken and we were back on the road, this time towards Golden
Buddha Beach resort.
activities were taken and we were back on the road, this time towards Golden
Buddha Beach resort.
Having recently read “Out of the Blue” by
Kimina Lyall, I gained some visual context to the setting of the book which is
about her experience of the 2004 Tsunami when she was at the resort. It was
quite sobering to see some of the houses mentioned and realise that the tiny
mounds of “Hornbill Hill” and “Monkey Mountain” were the salvation of the lucky
ones who reached them in time.
Kimina Lyall, I gained some visual context to the setting of the book which is
about her experience of the 2004 Tsunami when she was at the resort. It was
quite sobering to see some of the houses mentioned and realise that the tiny
mounds of “Hornbill Hill” and “Monkey Mountain” were the salvation of the lucky
ones who reached them in time.
The customers at the bar didn’t know quite
what to make of us. Interrupting their peaceful lunch, their smiles as we
arrived quickly faded as they realised the 30 rowdy children with us were
stopping to play at the beach. The children ran to the sea and I fear the
middle-class holiday makers ran back to their bungalows in the face of such
chaos. A quick exploration of the area and we Farang settled into the beautiful
wooden Yoga Sala near Hornbill Hill.
what to make of us. Interrupting their peaceful lunch, their smiles as we
arrived quickly faded as they realised the 30 rowdy children with us were
stopping to play at the beach. The children ran to the sea and I fear the
middle-class holiday makers ran back to their bungalows in the face of such
chaos. A quick exploration of the area and we Farang settled into the beautiful
wooden Yoga Sala near Hornbill Hill.
The wind and the rain soon started up again
with a vengeance so we ran back to the bar, avoiding falling palm tree branches
and coconuts (the helpful sign hanging from the bar “Watch out for Falling
Coconuts” duly noted). There was some consolation in that the rumour of pizza
came to a reality, so we all got to tuck into a slice or two as we looked out
forlornly at the rain once more.
with a vengeance so we ran back to the bar, avoiding falling palm tree branches
and coconuts (the helpful sign hanging from the bar “Watch out for Falling
Coconuts” duly noted). There was some consolation in that the rumour of pizza
came to a reality, so we all got to tuck into a slice or two as we looked out
forlornly at the rain once more.
Unfortunately we couldn’t hide forever, so
with the children armoured in make-shift bin-bag ponchos (they ran out of bin
bags before we could get covered) the tractors started up again and we headed
back, managing to keep in good spirits despite getting soaked again after only
just having dried off.
with the children armoured in make-shift bin-bag ponchos (they ran out of bin
bags before we could get covered) the tractors started up again and we headed
back, managing to keep in good spirits despite getting soaked again after only
just having dried off.
Jumping off as we reached the concrete path
and the motorcycle/side-cart, I waved good-bye to the children and the other
Farang as Barry, Kuntum and I headed back to Ban Lions for a good cup of tea
after a good day out.
and the motorcycle/side-cart, I waved good-bye to the children and the other
Farang as Barry, Kuntum and I headed back to Ban Lions for a good cup of tea
after a good day out.
Group photo to celebrate the day |
By Sarah Carson, MAP-Asia Volunt