Root for the Planet and support MAP, make your year-end donation today!

Skip to main content
Back to posts

Slow Food starts with Slow Fish

In
the Pacific Northwest and Alaska, photos of boats and families engaged in
traditional fishing activities are as beautiful to many as photos of small and
organic farms on land.  
Acknowledging
the value of family fisheries, celebrating the health benefits and flavors of
wild fish, and working to protect marine resources for future generations,
connect eaters, harvesters, environmentalists and policy makers. 
In
support of small scale producers, Slow Food and Slow Fish have a commitment to
community, healthy environments and food biodiversity.
Oxfam’s
support of the Slow Food USA Congress in Kentucky in April provided an
opportunity for a fisherwoman from the Pacific Northwest to bring photos,
recipes and stories of the heritage, hopes and concerns of family fisheries to
the gathering. 
After
catching wild salmon for nearly thirty years in Alaska and Washington waters, my
heart is full of gratitude since I’ve witnessed nature’s nearly indescribable
abundance – between 25 million and 65 million wild salmon returning to rivers of
Bristol Bay, Alaska in a summer month.  Most of the residents are involved in the
commercial fisheries  that supports
thousands of families while providing a healthy food that travels slo-o-owly by
boat and barge, in cans and frozen, to markets year around. This region is now
targeted for exploitation of valuable, nonrenewable resources that are under the
ground. Extraction would inevitably pollute the wild salmon rivers and destroy
an indigenous way of life that has existed for thousands of years.  
Healthy
wild fish populations seem to be viewed sometimes as deterrents to development.
 With rivers dammed, tidelands
bulldozed, coastal waters polluted, wild species decline, causing collapse of
economies based on once abundant common food resources. Currently, many
decisions are being made throughout coastal regions and watersheds whether to
resist or allow open pit mining, expanded oil and gas drilling, pipelines, coal
trains, and other industrial development.
When
governmental support of cheaper competitive products and often foreign owned
corporations/investors causes the value of sustainable resources to plummet, the
door is opened for short term dirty industries to come into a
region.
Just
as family farms on land are being displaced by mega-operations, small
independent fishing businesses cannot survive when bad practices of factory
farming are replicated in our marine environment. Many of the hazards are
similar: concentration of ownership, subsidies providing unfair market advantage
to large producers, introduction of genetically engineered and invasive species,
usage of antibiotics, pesticides and other chemicals, voluminous amounts of
pollution, which is uncontained in a fluid environment.  
Marine
feedlot operations are expanding and many companies receive government funding
for feed, cage and gear design research. 
Too often, global companies are exploiting coastal regions to rear high
value foods for export, taking the profits away from producing nations and
leaving the pollution and environmental degradation behind. 
At
the same time, “certification” schemes are being introduced that ignore the
basic flaws in intensive production of finfish, shellfish and shrimp –
especially that the true costs of production are not paid since nature provides
waste and chemical disposal.  High
value species, such as geoduck clams, shrimp and salmon, are reared for diners
in wealthier nations.  Many of the
species that can be grown in confinement result in a serious protein loss since
they are fed pellets composed of small fish, often harvested from coastlines of
poorer regions of the world.  Or
their production damages tidelands and the aquatic web of life, which is
occurring with geoduck and intensive oyster production in Washington State. In
tropical regions, widespread elimination of coastal mangroves is occurring
because of the expansion of shrimp farming operations.
Industrial
aquaculture that causes a protein loss and bankrupts coastal communities and
small businesses is neither sustainable nor fair.  Yet, aquaculture can provide nourishing
foods, if environmentally sound systems rearing fish that consume plants are
developed. 
As Slow Food’s
founder Carlos Petrini stated, “Slow Food unites the pleasure of food with
responsibility, sustainability and harmony with nature”.  
For
those who relish eating seafoods,
Slow Fish recommends
 
common
sense, curiosity
and
appetite to make choices that are
conscious,
delicious and responsible.
 Together
with Oxfam, we can help turn the tide and ensure that appropriate food is
available, affordable, sustainably produced/harvested, and enjoyed.
 
Anne
Mosness
Go Wild Campaign
34 Rocky Ridge Dr.
Bellingham, Wa.
98229